Category: Greece

The local specialty in Corfu was pastitsada, macaroni and Greek braised meat, its time-honoured tomato sauce with cinnamon and cloves (as reinvented in Cincinnati chilli) augmented with secret extra herbs and spices (if you’re lucky). The local specialty in Zante can overlap with braised meat sauce, but the foundations of its sauce, skordostoumpi, are garlic […]

Zante has cultural loading to Greeks, which you need to be aware of to understand what I was looking for here. The Ionian islands are portrayed in Greek literary and artistic history as Greece’s window to the west. Western music and art had their first foothold here. Western literary trends were followed longer, and in […]

When it is not hosting mass, the Church of St George on Old Corfu Fortress hosts cultural exhibitions, such as the current exhibition on local writer Constantine Theotokis, who wrote the kind of social realist novel that was all the rage a century ago. I’ve already alluded to him a couple of times.   What […]

O Church of St George, formerly Anglican barrack Church of the fortress and now Orthodox Church, certain to have been unnerving to at least some Greek clerics who have served here: where have you been all my life? Mass is only celebrated here twice a year: on St George’s Day, and for the Epitaphios procession […]

I’m embarking on my assault of the old fortress of Corfu. No, I am not climbing all of that, and mercifully St George’s church, my main target, is fairly low down on the hill. Speaking of assaults, this is the sculpture raised to Marshal Schulenburg, who defended Corfu for the Venetians against the Ottomans in […]

Philharmonic societies are all over Greece, and they do lots of things with lots of instrument groupings. But they are most prominent for their marching bands (playing the same march every parade), and that’s what people on Greece think a philharmonic does by default. This is the headquarters of the old Philharmonic society, founded 1840. […]

The patron saint of Corfu is St Spyridon, from the 4th century. The saint was from Cyprus, and never had any particular association with Corfu until the Fall of Constantinople, when a monk from Corfu chose to bring his relics home with him. The church housing his relics, built in the 1580s, is the main […]

It’s not all 17th century battlements and 18th century multi-storeys and 19th century neoclassicism. There’s also the signal contribution of the 20th century to architecture. To begin: Local open air gym, complete with protest banner about how the city has been asking the government for funding for a closed roof gymnasium for the past 40 […]

I was asked whether there were any signs of the presence in Corfu of the Durrell family, so beloved of English mass culture. And make no mistake, it wasn’t the high culture of Lawrence Durrell that made a generation of Britons fall in love with Corfu. It was Gerald Durrell‘s quirky middlebrow memoir of Corfu […]