Not Wittenberg, in Anafiotika

By: | Post date: July 1, 2023 | Comments: No Comments
Posted in categories: Culture, Greece

A recent social media storm has taken place in this little church on the edge of Anafiotika, the Greek islander settlement on the foot of the Acropolis, St Nicholas Rangavas. When I realised it was right next to me as I was touring Plaka, I thought it fitting to make a detour.

As detailed in Nick Nicholas’ answer to Are there altar girls in Greek Orthodox churches, the parish priest uploaded a photograph of the two altar girls that assisted him in the Easter service. In the fine print of Orthodox canon law, girls can serve at the altar if no boys are available, and according to church committee members, the letter of the law was observed: Athens is something of a ghost town around Easter, as people living in Athens return to their ancestral villages to celebrate the holiday.
The parish priest, Fr Alexandros Kariotoglou, had already attracted negative attention from conservatives for celebrating the mass in the vernacular, and then for blessing the gay parents of a child he was christening. He was seeking to make a point this time too. Spooked by enraged social media reactions, the Church of Greece was happy to oblige: he was suspended, pending a decision of the Synod of the Church of Greece.

The final photo is the chilling announcement from the parish that they will respect the decision of the Church of Greece, whatever it might be, in the spirit of Christian Love, and that they consider the entire matter closed.
Their Facebook post sounds a bit less like selling Fr Kariotoglou out (“Church canon is not a cannon, for killing people”, they cite a recent Saint as saying). But this was never going to be a Vatican II moment, let along a Wittenberg.
(As it turns out, the Synod had already convened to discuss the matter a few days before I was in Anafiotika, without coming up with a clear position—and given the loophole about altar boy availability that Kariotoglou had used, it is not obvious that it could have. In any case, the Synod clearly wanted to put the whole embarrassing incident behind it; Kariotoglou started celebrating mass again the day after I walked past his church.)

Fear and loathing in Exarchia

By: | Post date: July 1, 2023 | Comments: No Comments
Posted in categories: Culture, Greece

Had dinner in Exarchia tonight, at Lacantina.
… what, take photos at Exarchia?! OF COURSE NOT! THEY MIGHT HAVE KILLED ME!!!!
Ok, not really, but yes, those of our party that had not been to Exarchia before entered it with some trepidation. The place has quite the reputation.
Exarchia is Athens’ long-standing haunt of people’s anarchocommunist collectives, where cops have just as long been reluctant to go in. Heavy policing nowadays, though only in bits of it.
That aside, Exarchia is what you’d stereotypically expect it to be: shabby in a way that elsewhere would look chic, but here in Athens just looks even dirtier than usual; lots of graffiti and political posters; lots of political bookstores; lots of co-op and street food places; lots of young people hanging out, sitting on the sidewalk. Lacantina was consistent with that atmosphere, and would not have looked out of place in Melbourne’s Fitzroy.
(My readers may have noticed by now that I am not exactly a fire-breathing leftist. So my response to the values of Exarchia is not one of enthusiastic approval.)
One of the delicate balancing acts the long-term anarchists of Exarchia have had is that they aren’t the only people living there: there are run-of-the-mill civilians there too, and those committed to the long-term presence of Exarchia as a model alternative have had to be careful not to antagonise the civilians too much, but be seen by them as their allies.
Which meant that when militants started smashing up the local butcher’s windows a decade ago, and decrying spisismos (speciesism), not all the Exarchia anarchists thought this was a great idea. (The revelation for me was: not all contemporary Greek anarchists revere every single thing the Greek proletariat does, as used to be the expectation: certainly not their love of lamb chops.)
I did see one older guy lovingly crafting a bouzouki in a workshop, tonight: that was as close as I got to noticing a civilian. Exarchia was a lot quieter and less crowded than I expected.
The other thing that astonished me about Exarchia is that it is precisely the next district along after Kolonaki, residence of the PM and renowned hoity-toity district.
If the anti-authority forces actually wanted to cause serious disruption, they wouldn’t have to walk that far to do it. If they wanted to, as opposed to whatever it is they actually do within Exarchia. The district has for a while (though apparently not recently) been run through a tacit agreement: the cops don’t go in, the anarchists don’t go out…

The Niarchos Centre

By: | Post date: July 1, 2023 | Comments: No Comments
Posted in categories: Culture, Greece

The new digs of the National Opera and the National Library: the completely awesome Niarchos Cultural Centre, complete with musical fountain, which has only been in place for the past decade.
I am told that if you are trying to study inside the national library, you will grow to hate the musical fountain and its hourly amplified performances. For everyone else, it is a pure delight. Ευχαριστώ και πάλι Δήμητρα Μπιλιούλη που μου το έδειξες, και Νίκο Λυκάκη που μας υποδέχτηκες!

The navel of Athens

By: | Post date: July 1, 2023 | Comments: No Comments
Posted in categories: Culture, Greece

The navel of Athens is not the Parthenon. OK, strike that. The navel of ancient Athens is the Parthenon, but not for me.

The navel of Athens is not Parliament. OK, strike that. The navel of contemporary Athens is Parliament, but not for me.

The navel of Athens is not the Orthodox Cathedral, nor is the Catholic Cathedral of St Dionysius the Areopagite. Although that particular Catholic church is not as understated as some Catholic churches in Greece.

No, there can only be one navel of Athens. The cluster on University St: The Old National Library, the ceremonial hall of Athens University, and the Academy of Athens.

It is a majestic looking precinct, but it is now too small to get anything done here. Both the National Library and the national opera (which was tucked away behind it) have moved in the past decade to new digs…

The books of Athens

By: | Post date: July 1, 2023 | Comments: No Comments
Posted in categories: Culture, Greece

Remember how I pointed out in Salonica the National Bank Educational Institute bookshop, and how it is kryptonite for my wallet?

Remember too, how I said that I wasn’t familiar with the Athens bookshop, because it was in a side street.

It was indeed in a sidestreet. Two blocks away from the Dialect Research Centre.

Bye-bye money belt. I did find books to buy there, though not a huge number; I’d almost exhausted what I wanted to get for linguistic purposes, and most books from here were to fill in other niches of my Greek cultural knowledge. I bought a book of essays on 19th century Ermoupolis, for example, the Greek New Orleans, so I could better understand the world that rebetiko (or at least, Markos Vamvakaris) came out of.

There were other bookshops, but in contrast to past years, quality bookshops are now concentrated in Hippocrates St and Aesclepius St, just to the west of the Old National Library. I’ll be going through them once I’m back, once I’ve received them through the mail (at not inconsiderable expense), and once I take my next week off—at this rate, not before Christmas.

One book is know is going to be fun is a collection of commonplace sayings from Crete. I’ve described Crete as a land of Brian Blesseds; their conversational strategies and aphorisms match that, and I already had a great time reading Contossopoulos’ assortment from the 60s. The phrase I grabbed through a preview peek is still with me.

Spoken of someone whose purchases have not demonstrated due diligence and attention: Καβαλάρης πουσούνιζες;

DID YOU GO SHOPPING ON HORSEBACK?!

Uphill and downhill in Kolonaki

By: | Post date: July 1, 2023 | Comments: No Comments
Posted in categories: Culture, Greece

Athens CBD involves two hills (pictured: zoom in and you might see a bit of the Parthenon). One is the Acropolis. My accommodation is near the other one, Lycabettus. (Specifically, I am next to the original Roman water tank that fed the city. The water company still uses it as backup. It’s a couple of streets before the hillside runs out of streets.)
The roller coaster view of the Acropolis looks like that because I am on a hill. That’s Bucharest St.
And that photo is looking back up at Lycabettus.
Kolonaki is renowned as the fancy rich district of Central Athens. It’s where the worthy and the good of Athens society gather. Its cafes are full of politicians; I shared a dry cleaner with the Prime Minister (“30 shirts a week”). And its denizens, I keep being told, are pretty smug about living there.
I don’t see why. It’s still Central Athens. It’s right next door to the anarchist squatter communes of Exarchia, and the only difference I could make out between the two was, less graffiti and more housemaids. It’s still dusty and loud and grey.
It does at least feature Tsakalof St, a little mall of bars which I came to embrace as a workplace.
Tsakalof St is named for a Greek revolutionary society. As often happened in the 19th century, Greeks who migrated to Russia from Greece had their surnames Russianised: Athanasios Tsakalof was born with the surname Tsakalos in Ioannina (Αθανάσιος Τσακάλωφ). Similarly, the 20th century journalist Kostas Faltaits (Κωνσταντίνος Φαλτάιτς) was descended from a Greek who had migrated to Russia, and changed his surname to Faltayich, from the original surname Faltagis.
Kolonaki itself, “little column”, is named for a small votive column that featured in Kolonaki Square. I’m assuming the column of Kolonaki is in storage somewhere, because the square itself has currently been dug up for the Athens subway. It was still there in 2018.

Greeks mangling English

By: | Post date: July 1, 2023 | Comments: No Comments
Posted in categories: Uncategorized

Poster sighed in Athens, for a book fair.

May be an image of poster, signboard and text that says "οι ΕΚΔΟΣΕΙΣ Î‘ÎpΑ ΣΤΗ ΔΗΜΟΤΙΚΗ aropa ΚΥΨΕΛΗΣ BAZAAR2 ΠΑΡΑΣΚΕΥΗ 16, ΣΑΒΒΑΤΟ 17 & ΚΥΡΙΑΚΗ 18 ΙΟΥΝΙΟΥ ΩΡΕΣ ΛΕΙΤΟΥΡΓΙΑΣ: ΠΑΡΑΣΚΕΥΗ & ΣΑΒΒΑΤΟ 09.00-21.00, ΚΥΡΙΑΚΗ 11.00-20.30 ΦΩΚΙΩΝΟΣ ΝΕΓΡΗ 42, ΚΥΨΕΛΗ 600 ΤΙΤΛΟΙ ΒΙΒΛΙΩΝ ΜΕ 50% ΠΡΟΣΦΟΡΕΣ ΚΑΙ ΠΟΛΛΑ ΔΩΡΑ Πεζογραφία, ποίηση. δοκίμια, αστυνομικά, φωτογραφικά καί καλλιτεχνικά λευκώματα, παιδικά, άρχαία έλληνική καί βυζαντινή γραμματολογία agra.gr maik info@agra.g Facebook: Agra.Publications astagram agrapubs Blog: AIPA"

If only Greek have been in contact with a Near Eastern language, from which it could have already borrowed the word bazaar.
Oh wait…
What’s that? The word παζάρι means “market” so it wouldn’t work here?
Why? What exactly do you think “bazaar” means here to begin with? It’s a book fair, not palm dates and camel meat…
This poster did my head in even more, but Facebook crashed when I was about to post it.
May be an image of text
It is, I think, an ad for a poetry slam.
All very street, all very hip, but still. Poets. Whose business is the potential of the Greek language. Even in hip hop.
The event is called:
POETIC MEÏKHEM.
Who is Meïkhem, you ask?
“Mayhem”.
The contemporary Greek language, as I would expect a goddamn poet to apprehend, however Street they may be, has a dozen words for mayhem. Κομφούζιο, αλαλούμ, αφασία, το έλα να δεις, μπάχαλο, αναστάτωση, γης Μαδιάμ.
But noooo. It has to be in English to be street talk, for the same reason socialites here in the ’50s parroted undigested French.
Not that “mayhem” is particularly Street in English to begin with.
Schmucks. That street enough for ya?

The Historical Dictionary

By: | Post date: July 1, 2023 | Comments: No Comments
Posted in categories: Culture, Greece, Language

My business in Athens, aside from continuing to work for my employer and visiting my kin, was to visit the Research Centre for Modern Greek Dialects in the Academy of Athens, publishers of the Historical Dictionary of Modern Greek. My friend Io Manolessou is now director of the centre, and my friend Dion Mertyris has just started work there as one of its editors.

I have a history with the centre myself; it’s where I conducted my doctoral research, back in 1995–96, when they were in Agios Sostis, on the southern edge of Central Athens. Now they are to its north, at the beginning of Kolonaki. Which is why I ended up staying on the other side of Kolonaki, a downhill 10 minute walk away. (Downhill one direction, at least.)

The centre was established in 1908, and history weighs heavily upon it, as its staff continue to discharge its mission. They do so under the watchful eye of the grand old men of Greek dialectology—

  • Back row: Paul Kretschmer, Max Vasmer, Hubert Pernot, August Heisenberg.
  • Front row: Albert Thumb, George Hatzidakis, Berthold Delbrück.

These names won’t mean anything to many of you, except that a few more of you will be familiar with the son of one of these guys.
Back row, right. August Heisenberg. Byzantine studies professor, Munich. Recorded Greek POWs for dialect in Görlitz, during WWI.

And father of Werner.

For those who do know who these guys are, by the way: the established wisdom is that the greatest of these was the one Greek guy among all the Germans, Hatzidakis. I’m here to tell you it was the one French guy among all the Germans, Pernot.

When I visited in 1995, I had the privilege of meeting the three living former directors of the centre, Krekoukias, Contossopoulos, and Vayacacos. I was happy to see their pictures up in the new location.

  • Dimitris Krekoukias, 1981–1984
  • Nikolaos Contossopoulos, 1985–1991
  • Eleftheria Giakoumaki, 1991–2007

  • Dikeos Vayacacos (top), 1954–1955, 1967–1980
  • Ioannis Kalleris, 1955–1964

And going further back,

  • Anthimos Papadopoulos, 1932–1953
  • Ioannis Voyatzidis, 1925–1926

  • Phaidon Koukoules, 1926–1931
  • Panagis Lorentzatos, 1914–1923

  • Petros Papageorgiou, 1911–1914

  • Konstantinos Amantos, 1924–1925

Under Amantos, Georgios Anagnostopoulos, who wrote a grammar of Tsakonian while working here as an editor…

… and Thanasis Costakis (1907–2009), who worked as an editor for the centre, while compiling a grammar of the dialect of Silli and of Anakou in Cappadocia—and who, as a native speaker, has a towering presence in the history of Tsakonian studies. No longer the eager 24-year old contributing to Pernot’s grammar of Tsakonian, nor yet the resigned, kind old man I interviewed in his bedrobe in 1995.

Dialect death and Sior Nionio

By: | Post date: June 11, 2023 | Comments: 1 Comment
Posted in categories: Culture, Greece, Language

I’m going to conclude with something silly. Except it isn’t.

Like many Greeks of my age, I was brought up with the televised shadow puppetry of Karagiozis, as performed (for colour TV!) by Evgenios Spatharis; in fact, one of the few Greek recordings of anything my parents had in Tasmania was a recording of Karagiozis.

Karagiozis featured stock heroes from a couple of parts of Greece. Which means that I got exposed to Sior Nionio (= Signor Dionysis): the stock figure of a Westernised Zante nobleman, fallen on hard times.

Vaudeville dialect accents have a kernel of truth to them. The Turks in Karagiozis, after all, have the back /a/ that Turks (and Istanbul Greeks) do use speaking Greek.

But even at this advanced stage of dialect death, I’m pretty confident Zantiots don’t speak in this singsong an intonation.

What little I’ve heard is like in Corfu: only faintly singsong, and with a lot of falling tones. This example will serve, though long: it’s a performance of an omilia, a folk play, St Gryphon’s Underpants (starts at 2:30).


Dialect handbooks will tell you that Ancient Greek /ia, ea/ went to [ja] consistently in the vernacular; when they don’t, that’s a giveaway that the word is not vernacular to begin with. Archaic dialects like Pontic keep the two syllables; but in mainstream Greek, the only exceptions are Mani, and Zante: μηλέα “apple-tree”, not μηλιά.
(And dialectologists will tell you those aren’t the only exceptions in mainstream Greek, but let me not complicate the story further.)
Well, Zante *was* an exception. Nikos Liosis related to me that he went on a linguistic mission to Zante 20 years ago, and recorded two little old ladies still doing it in Keri, southernmost tip of Zante (where the tourists go to explore caves and turtles, not people.) Which means that exception is now gone here too.
In fact, it’s been retreating for a fair while, as Liosis informs me. Vayacacos in 1967 had reported the archaic pronunciation was restricted to the south of the island. In the early 20th century, Giannoutsos reports that it was being preempted by palatalisation, in contexts that allowed it: fili.a > fiʎa.
But you can still hear an arekia or two at Varkarola taverna. Even if there’s repertoire they refuse to do there because there’s only two of them and not four. Even if they switch to Volare when there’s critical mass of Italian tourists in attendance. And when they’re relaxed, you will still hear them use the dialectal form of the definite article, tsi and tsu.
And of course, a lot of this past Greece I am not finding any more was only in my head to begin with. Just like Sior Nionio’s intonation was likely all in puppeteer Spatharis’ head.
My trip to Zante comes to the same conclusion as my trip to Sitia, really. So much has been lost in this country. Some of it was never truly here.
And it’s my business to cherish what’s left.

On the songs of Italian retirees

By: | Post date: June 11, 2023 | Comments: No Comments
Posted in categories: Culture, Greece, Music

A random observation, as I sit in Foscolo café-and-cinema.

Greece is full of retirees from elsewhere in Europe. Some of them find out how the place works; some of them pick up some of the language.

There was a tableful of Italian tourists behind me. There was a tableful of Italian retirees in front of me, and their Greek was heavily accented, but decent. In fact, one of them is telling his life story now, and his parents spent a lot of time here too.

Like I said, the cultural connection of the Ionian Islands with Italy endures, two centuries after Napoleon swept the Venetians aside.

I am always touched when someone who isn’t from here makes here their home, and makes an effort to fit in, instead of staying aloof and apart. It is love for what I love, and I cannot but appreciate that. I’ll certainly excuse the joyful “SO WHERE IN ITALY ARE YOU FROM!” that the Italian tourists behind me got; I was no different in the post offices here with Irish and Australian tourists.

… But. For the love of God.

Do you HAVE to keep breaking out into spontaneous duet singing of O Sole Mio?!!

At least tenor Marios Frangoulis is paid to do so. And then follows up with Zorba’s Dance, not as the tourist special, but as the beautiful song Theodorakis penned over it for a play. (Nick Nicholas’ Answer To: What is the story of the song lyrics from the famous movie Zorba The Greek “Στρώσε το στρώμα σου”?)

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