The old town of Nicosia, much too close to the Green Zone and mostly abandoned for decades, is a resource the city has been much too slow to modernise and promote. My cousin Foula has recommended Erma [“Ballast”] cafe-cum-bookshop, built in the old grand sandstone style, and it is utterly charming.
![](https://scontent.fsyd3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/358119726_10159987525692758_9107724310041534547_n.jpg?stp=dst-jpg_p960x960&_nc_cat=110&cb=99be929b-3346023f&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=730e14&_nc_ohc=od4lQvIYmikAX--yiDM&_nc_ht=scontent.fsyd3-1.fna&oh=00_AfDjJL5sf_JxiOs-5JfB0mzTxouO15kCK_1Pcc9PltSXlg&oe=64AB811D)
![](https://scontent.fsyd3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/358140701_10159987525882758_1446640508201154654_n.jpg?stp=dst-jpg_p960x960&_nc_cat=101&cb=99be929b-3346023f&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=730e14&_nc_ohc=nA4GehTigOwAX-cbsmM&_nc_ht=scontent.fsyd3-1.fna&oh=00_AfAe9ToG5-Vj67mM1ZXsBlQ3lREC5JkXNm_QnmH6CS5nLA&oe=64ACB68C)
![](https://scontent.fsyd3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/358131336_10159987526062758_5462142867993859591_n.jpg?stp=dst-jpg_p960x960&_nc_cat=109&cb=99be929b-3346023f&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=730e14&_nc_ohc=zFk9IBV_0xUAX9u4ng0&_nc_ht=scontent.fsyd3-1.fna&oh=00_AfAIbI8WSU8lx4YgWBZBr_fRHqRRGOWQN8zht-JofB4bKA&oe=64ACF39F)
![](https://scontent.fsyd3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/358133093_10159987526247758_1181522386465681154_n.jpg?stp=dst-jpg_p960x960&_nc_cat=102&cb=99be929b-3346023f&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=730e14&_nc_ohc=SBY-Eq44TfEAX_rknxc&_nc_ht=scontent.fsyd3-1.fna&oh=00_AfADzXLijqEa4N31jsQ_qTUmeHccgUYlkPY9cu8m2Tw5bA&oe=64AD0024)
![](https://scontent.fsyd3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/358640353_10159987526377758_7654933020291498695_n.jpg?stp=dst-jpg_p960x960&_nc_cat=106&cb=99be929b-3346023f&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=730e14&_nc_ohc=pdbWjzjNQlcAX9jErJI&_nc_ht=scontent.fsyd3-1.fna&oh=00_AfBdPZ7A7A2Vrl0woSP-9uZirCvop2txCm2uVujc8krmLQ&oe=64AD3B42)
It is also utterly quiet, there is very little going on here in the daytime, although apparently there is a little bit of nightlife.
Old Nicosia town is picturesque and pretty much abandoned.
![](https://scontent.fsyd3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/358126572_10159987527812758_6697801463622852203_n.jpg?stp=dst-jpg_p960x960&_nc_cat=111&cb=99be929b-3346023f&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=8bfeb9&_nc_ohc=sDip9p2GtlMAX8S5SwN&_nc_ht=scontent.fsyd3-1.fna&oh=00_AfCf7eGXAhw0t5g1KKOu3LvmoJuSZeyqpoN3Yrnyc317gA&oe=64ACFAA1)
![](https://scontent.fsyd3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/358672736_10159987528147758_589736494904381265_n.jpg?stp=dst-jpg_p960x960&_nc_cat=100&cb=99be929b-3346023f&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=8bfeb9&_nc_ohc=KDo4BFAnqPAAX8TyWmk&_nc_ht=scontent.fsyd3-1.fna&oh=00_AfBKNZJFhZS7ewdiyAa9J-r_cPGvsvgXD4yxo-bvVN79iQ&oe=64ABA90B)
![](https://scontent.fsyd3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/357466154_10159987528267758_8016524727775811031_n.jpg?stp=dst-jpg_p960x960&_nc_cat=101&cb=99be929b-3346023f&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=8bfeb9&_nc_ohc=xIL7VhnL7YcAX8PgLJG&_nc_ht=scontent.fsyd3-1.fna&oh=00_AfDVg0f6mUZg7FbuvIL4IHhGfHQ36QA0Na39C4PeRkC2mg&oe=64ABB0C2)
![](https://scontent.fsyd3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/358634098_10159987528492758_1157650554502576329_n.jpg?stp=dst-jpg_p960x960&_nc_cat=111&cb=99be929b-3346023f&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=8bfeb9&_nc_ohc=CuwHBj1efYMAX8ZXOil&_nc_ht=scontent.fsyd3-1.fna&oh=00_AfC6GN_D9TBbafb03ul92uokg-pfDanj4WVoocxx8-n5LA&oe=64AC022C)
I presume the mural, with St European Union holding the decapitated head of Cyprus in a platter, is not altogether sympathetic to the European project.
![](https://scontent.fsyd3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/358482020_10159987528387758_4222841343850158152_n.jpg?stp=dst-jpg_p960x960&_nc_cat=105&cb=99be929b-3346023f&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=8bfeb9&_nc_ohc=hgK7mcF2k9QAX_NZzfs&_nc_oc=AQlsM6bVe7zaKXXBB99ob4j12gp9mDgKODmqPKgZuqTiOZ1aeMb73TNYXnDgbtzpa-g&_nc_ht=scontent.fsyd3-1.fna&oh=00_AfCAQGIxFV9fxMvjjn00aZ9lgiSigOjaf1IDtqzXmRL8EA&oe=64AC17E3)
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