Kalvos, Foscolo, and not letting exiles be exiles

By: | Post date: June 11, 2023 | Comments: No Comments
Posted in categories: Culture, Greece, Language

I don’t like the poetry of Andreas Kalvos.

I don’t like it, because I find his archaic Greek stanzas stiff, and lifeless, and bombastic. Especially compared to the vigour and passion of his contemporary, Dionysis Solomos.

I may well continue to hold that judgement, but there is yet another bias behind it; the legacy of the Greek language question. By the 1960s, the battle lines were clear: to advocate for Puristic Greek at all was to be a reactionary, a servile nostalgic for the classical past, a creature with no literary taste, a figure of derision and scorn, if not outright hatred.

In such a worldview, Kalvos’ archaic patriotic odes could find  no welcome. Although he has continued to have his defenders, people who perhaps have a clearer view of poetry that diglossia polemics did not obscure. Perhaps.

Part of the problem Kalvos faces with modern reception among Greeks is that archaic Greek did not mean to him what it meant in 1960. In 1820, archaic Greek was the language of Westernisation, and progressiveness, and national rebirth. It was certainly a surer bet than the bet made by Solomos, and Polylas in Corfu, that the vernacular should be the national language. To many Greeks of the time, the vernacular was an embarrassment, a language corrupted by Turkish and Italian, a language dumbed down from its classical glories. When Korais launched Puristic Greek as a middle solution between ancient and vernacular Greek, it was a sensible if underspecified project; and indeed, it’s not like what is now Standard Greek did not undergo some of the “cleanup” that Korais prescribed.

And Kalvos’ legacy is compounded by the fact that a lot of what he was doing, neoclassicism, antiquarianism, constant longing for a lost homeland, was taken directly from Foscolo, his mentor, who was writing in Italian sonnets exactly what Kalvos ended up writing in Sapphic odes.

And because Kalvos and Foscolo ended up writing in different languages, they were claimed by different communities, and received differently.

Gregoria Manzin and I discussed this claiming:

Gregoria:
[Foscolo] ended up dying in London, pretty much destitute. He is now buried in Santa Croce, Florence, after the ‘unified’ Kingdom of Italy (that of 1861, not the Napoleonic one) brought his remains back to Italy—which was not home.
Me:
And yet, by 1864, Zante wouldn’t have been either. Italian was already banished as a language of civil discourse, Greek nationalism was on the ascendancy, the islanders were putting their Italian past behind them.
There is still a lot more cultural contact with Italy than elsewhere in Greece (hence my folk singers singing “Volare” and the Forza Napoli song tonight, and lawyers’ awnings being bilingual in Italian not English: “avvocato”.) But you know… in a sense, Italy became his true home after his death. Even if some people here do seem to remember him.
Gregoria:
I guess this matter of where home was for Foscolo is what interested me a lot. His birthplace was no longer his birthplace after it was handed over. It was just a place of memory, hence the pervasive nostalgia in his works.
My dad’s family suffered from a similar malady with the handing over of Istria and Dalmatia after the war. Foscolo’s lyrical tones were much different in form but he spoke of sentiments familiar to me in a way. Strange as it seems, as a young pupil in intermediate school, I could somewhat relate to this poet who lived centuries before – or perhaps it’s only that I could ‘translate’ some of his pain and understood what the experience might mean.
Me:
 I don’t know that I’m going to like Kalvos’ poetry any better, but what I read of his biography is tragic.
Unlike Foscolo, he did get to go home. He returned full of patriotic fervour, only to find the Greek Revolutionary War bogged down in sordid factionalism, and his own patriotic poetry ignored.
Disillusioned, he moved to Corfu, where he worked on and off as a teacher for the next 25 years, and never wrote another verse. Dionysios Solomos, the patriotic poet that everyone acknowledged, had also moved to Corfu: Kalvos either made a point of never meeting him (English Wikipedia) or else held him as “just an acquaintance” (Greek Wikipedia). In 1852, Kalvos moved to London, where he died.
A century later, the Greek ambassador to the UK, George Seferis (who also happened to be one of the great Greek poets of the 20th century) arranged for his remains to be sent back home to Zante.
Zante was the yearned for home that Kalvos hymned in 1824. By the time he died in 1869, Greece was where he was disillusioned, disappointed and ignored, eclipsed by the other Zante poet. It was the place he abandoned.
And a century later, Greeks reinter him in Zante, only to play second fiddle to that other poet again. There is only one statue in the mausoleum hosting both poets. Nobody even knows now what Kalvos looked like.
What the living do with the remains of the dead is for the gratification of the living. Seferis wanted Kalvos home, and he got his way.
I doubt Kalvos would have agreed. I doubt Kalvos by then thought of Zante as home any more.

Dionysis Romas and the Popolari

By: | Post date: June 11, 2023 | Comments: No Comments
Posted in categories: Culture, Greece

I notice ironies. Or at least, things that strike me as ironies.
The Venetian Ionian Islands, like Venetian Crete, was run as a feudal kind of place. When Napoleon’s troops came to town, after Napoleon had kicked aside what little was left of the Venetian Republic, the people ceremonially burnt the Libro d’Oro, the listing of the nobility of the islands.
Depicted, the crests of those noble families. If you zoom in, you’ll see that most of the family names are Italian, but some are Greek: Xanthopulo, for example.
Actually, you can’t, my picture is too blurry. Here’s a page from Coats of Arms of Zante (Οικόσημα της Ζακύνθου), by Ioannis Laskaratos-Typaldos, published on Facebook:
The families: Dona/Dikopoulos, Donato, Damusa, Xanthopoulos, Oncleso naval, Paidis, Palaiologos, Palladas, Pantuveri, Papadato, Paruta
Venetian Crete rebelled against its masters every couple of decades. There was a rebellion on Zante too in 1628, the Rebellion of the Popolari. That Rebellion gets a lot more attention now than the constant rebellions in Crete, because it was explicitly class based: the popolari were the urban lower classes, seeking greater political representation.
The popolari were rebelling against the cittadini, the established urban bourgeoisie, rather than feudal lords; the boundary between the two classes was porous, and the cittadini wanted to stop it being porous. 60 years later, they succeeded in restricting membership of the city council to just themselves, and they renamed themselves nobles. That bought them a century until Napoleon came to town.
The life work of local author Dionysis Romas (1906–1981) was going to be a set of three trilogies of novels, depicting the history of the island over 3 centuries. (He only got to five novels before he died.)
Romas is depicted with the first of his nine novels, The Sopracomito (The galley commander). Because of modern interests, I’m pretty sure he is best known for his second novel: The Rebellion of the Popolari.
And that makes it ironic that he too is depicted with his family’s heraldic crest of nobility.

Solomos Museum, Zante

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Posted in categories: Culture, Greece

I came out of the Solomos museum sobered.
Through my trip to Zante, I’ve been doing cute acerbic asides about the museum name (Solomos and Illustrious Zacynthians), and about how much I dislike the poetry of Kalvos. I’m going to ease up on that. There is a tragedy to Kalvos’ life that deserves a bit more respect than that, even if I don’t like his poetry. And the tragedy of the earthquake does weigh over this museum too.
In any case, the museum is mostly a jumble of portraits, not all of them contemporary, with a few personal effects and books. Almost nothing in the way of explanation or contextualisation. But from the sheer numbers of portraits you do get a sense that there was a substantial intellectual life to Zante in the 19th century.
As given away by the few theatre bills from the 19th century. On the more popular edge of that intellectual life, this is an ad for a performance of The dinner of the great serpent in 1832. Stage design by Giuseppe Bini of Vienna, as performed in Germany, Russia, Constantinople, and before his majesty the Sultan. Also featuring 100 mechanical games on copper wire. (Electricity had just been invented, I guess.)

Our Lady of Episkopi, Crete via Zante

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Posted in categories: Culture, Greece

I forgot to post this earlier when I was going through the Post-Byzantine museum. It’s a link back home to Crete.

This icon of Our Lady of the Village of Episkopi was brought to Zante from Crete by refugees from the fall of Crete in 1669.

“Cretan” in Zante meant “refugee” for a very long time afterwards, and the influx of Cretans allowed some continuity between Cretan and Ionian Islander literature: the very last play included in the Cretan canon, for example, Zeno, was in fact possibly written in Zante, where it was first stage in 1683.

(And as a further tidbit that I didn’t know until today: Dionysios Solomos himself traced his descent from refugees from Handras. A village 30 km south of Sitia.)

The body of the icon of Our Lady of Episkopi was repainted in the 17th century, the face is the original 11th century face, presumed painted in Constantinople.

Icons were routinely coated with silver and gold, made it to look like clothing. When the museum removed the silver coating, it sounds a further inscription: the icon had been moved to Candia (now Iraklio) from its original site in the countryside in 1657, as the Ottomans conquered all of the island except for its holdout capital.

Nougat in Zante

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Posted in categories: Culture, Greece

Nougat and sesame bars (παστέλι) are everywhere here. It seems to me more like 20 than 2 workshops making the stuff.

Picked up a sample, pictured.
… And yes. They were some of the nougat and sesame bars I’ve ever tasted.
????

How to do regional government offices properly

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Posted in categories: Culture, Greece

Attentive readers will recall the brutalist disaster of the regional government offices in Corfu.
I attach for your consideration the regional government offices of Zante. Complete with busts of local notables. This is how you actually do it. Even if you don’t make your air conditioning units an architectural feature.

Church of the Ascension, Zante

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Posted in categories: Culture, Greece

This Church of the Ascension grabbed my attention, because of how its bell tower dominated its Street, south side of town. It’s a recent church, it turns out, not a restoration: 1980.
But the icons over the gate are too Western to have been painted in this past century, the century of Kontoglou’s Byzantine Revival. They’ve clearly been stashed away from one of the ruined churches, awaiting an opportunity to perform their function once more.
A question to my readers in Greece: this yellow flag with the two-headed eagle, in front of every church in the land: is it a recent thing? I’ve only noticed it this trip.

St Fyodor Ushakov

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Posted in categories: Countries, Culture

Outside the church of St Dionysius, a bust of Fyodor Ushakov, Russian naval commander.
May be an image of monument
The Russian inscription indicates the statue was a Russian idea, but it isn’t absurd to see him here: Ushakov won the sea battle that wrested control the Ionian Islands away from Napoleonic France for seven years, of autonomy under joint Russian and Ottoman suzerainty.
The WTF is elsewhere.
… SAINT Fyodor Ushakov?!
On 7 August 2001 the Russian Orthodox Church glorified Ushakov as a Saint and declared him the patron of the Russian Navy. His relics are enshrined in Sanaksar Monastery, Temnikov, Russia.
In 2005, in the Cathedral of St. Theodore Ushakov in Saransk (Mordovia), Patriarch Alexius II declared Saint Feodor (Theodore) Ushakov the patron saint of Russian nuclear-armed strategic bombers.
Note: the Cathedral in Saransk, cornerstone laid 2002 as the new city cathedral— wasn’t even completed until 2006! Patriarch Alexius in 2005 was clearly in a hurry.
St Fyodor Ushakov, patron saint of Russian nuclear-armed strategic bombers.
I have no words…

St Dionysius Church, Zante

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Posted in categories: Culture, Greece

The church of St Dionysius is stately, Byzantine, and full of good, old school narrative frescoes: I was impressed by its Creation of the World.

The frescoes give away that this is a recreation of a Byzantine-style original. Icons were brought back to Byzantine styling in the 20th century, but frescoes were not revived.

The church appears to have been established in 1717, as the monastery of the Strophades, destroyed in an Ottoman raid, was relocated to Zante Town with the saint’s relics. The church was already rebuilt after the previous big quake of 1893, and had only been opened in 1948, just in time for the 1953 disaster.

Although the church is stately, the roads leading up to it are shabby; this is the less glamorous side of town.
Zante Town harbour is a crescent. The crescent ends in the North at St Nicholas of the Quay, at the edge of the main square. There is stuff north of it, including my accommodation, but things do wind down after the main square.
The southern point of the crescent is the church of St Dionysius, and right next to it the red port authority building. Again, there probably is stuff south of here, but from memory driving in, not a whole lot.
The shot below is from me sitting in the taverna under the port authority, right next to the church. The taverna is called “The Saint’s Rod”. Recall, St Dionysius was a bishop, so he would have had a ceremonial staff. But if there is an anecdote behind this particular saint’s staff, it will have to wait: I have too much else to research.

A palace out of place

By: | Post date: June 11, 2023 | Comments: No Comments
Posted in categories: Culture, Greece

As you head further south in Zante Town, the buildings gradually scale down, the streets get dustier, the shops less touristy. And that’s hardly an unfamiliar gradient.
May be an image of street
May be an image of street
Which is why this palatial complex of offices and luxury apartments, among those alleys, makes no sense at all. It pops out of nowhere in an otherwise sleepy backstreet, all sculptures and gleaming facade. It didn’t belong here before 1953, it doesn’t now (as the side alley pics show), and you’ve got to wonder how well it’s going to cope with the next major quake.
The front gate has a hint: Botsiou-Aktypi Mansion. The online White Pages indicate one Eurydiki Botsiou-Aktypi is a lung doctor in town. Looks like she is doing well enough to convert her surgery into a Roman palace, but not enough to move it to the north part of town.
May be an image of indoors
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