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Day: June 10, 2023

Constantine Theotokis

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Posted in categories: Culture, Greece

When it is not hosting mass, the Church of St George on Old Corfu Fortress hosts cultural exhibitions, such as the current exhibition on local writer Constantine Theotokis, who wrote the kind of social realist novel that was all the rage a century ago. I’ve already alluded to him a couple of times.   What […]

Church of St George

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Posted in categories: Culture, Greece

O Church of St George, formerly Anglican barrack Church of the fortress and now Orthodox Church, certain to have been unnerving to at least some Greek clerics who have served here: where have you been all my life? Mass is only celebrated here twice a year: on St George’s Day, and for the Epitaphios procession […]

Old Fortress of Corfu

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Posted in categories: Culture, Greece

I’m embarking on my assault of the old fortress of Corfu. No, I am not climbing all of that, and mercifully St George’s church, my main target, is fairly low down on the hill. Speaking of assaults, this is the sculpture raised to Marshal Schulenburg, who defended Corfu for the Venetians against the Ottomans in […]

On the accent of Corfu

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Posted in categories: Greece, Language

As I’ve already noted several times in my trip, there is very little left of traditional dialect in Greece if you don’t go hunting for it, and Corfu Town at the start of tourist season is not the place to go looking for it. All that really remains anywhere is regional variation in intonation. Crete […]

The three Philharmonic societies of Corfu Town

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Posted in categories: Culture, Greece

Philharmonic societies are all over Greece, and they do lots of things with lots of instrument groupings. But they are most prominent for their marching bands (playing the same march every parade), and that’s what people on Greece think a philharmonic does by default. This is the headquarters of the old Philharmonic society, founded 1840. […]

St Spyridon Church

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Posted in categories: Culture, Greece

The patron saint of Corfu is St Spyridon, from the 4th century. The saint was from Cyprus, and never had any particular association with Corfu until the Fall of Constantinople, when a monk from Corfu chose to bring his relics home with him. The church housing his relics, built in the 1580s, is the main […]

Brutalism in Corfu

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Posted in categories: Culture, Greece

It’s not all 17th century battlements and 18th century multi-storeys and 19th century neoclassicism. There’s also the signal contribution of the 20th century to architecture. To begin: Local open air gym, complete with protest banner about how the city has been asking the government for funding for a closed roof gymnasium for the past 40 […]

The Durrells in Corfu, and the Boschetto they have taken over

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Posted in categories: Culture, Greece

I was asked whether there were any signs of the presence in Corfu of the Durrell family, so beloved of English mass culture. And make no mistake, it wasn’t the high culture of Lawrence Durrell that made a generation of Britons fall in love with Corfu. It was Gerald Durrell‘s quirky middlebrow memoir of Corfu […]

Missed excursions in Corfu

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Posted in categories: Culture, Greece

When my mother visited Corfu, she was very taken with the Achilleum, the summer palace of Empress Sissy of Austria-Hungary, and has been steadily encouraging me to see it. My Lonely Planet notes there’s surprisingly little to see on the inside, but it does look a million bucks on the outside… … when it’s not […]

Nicholas as Žižek and as Generic Edgelord

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Posted in categories: Greece, Personal

I’m happier than I look! But it is toasty, 4 pm… Slavoj Žižek: DJ François Kevorkian (that comparison, I got volunteered in Zante): OK, back to me: I’m getting mistaken as a foreigner a lot more than elsewhere, including in Rhodes. Even changing planes in Istanbul, airport staff assumed I was local and not foreign. […]

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