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Day: July 2, 2023
Museum of Greek folk instruments: woodwinds
Flutes are another instrument that did not go professional, and fell out of practice in modernity. The distinction between the flogera and the souravli, the open flute and the ducted flute, is not one I have any idea about: The museum has a proud array of flogeras and souravlis: And in the bottom right corner, […]
Museum of Greek folk instruments: bagpipes
I’ll let the museum itself describe the two families of bagpipes in Greece, the mainland gaida (name used throughout the Balkans, Turkey, and Ukraine), and the island tsambouna (Italian zampogna):I commented earlier that drum accompaniment was the very earliest iteration of folk instrument bands. Drums fell out of use, as being too loud for recording. […]
Museum of Greek folk instruments: drums
Greek folk music used to run on pairings of a melody instrument, and a rhythm instrument. That principle kept going into modern times, but the membership changed. Stage 3, which there was a bit of in the mainland, and a lot more of in the bouzouki orchestra, was several melody leads alternating, and several rhythm […]
Museum of Greek folk instruments: plucked
The Greek versions of the dulcimer and the zither, the santouri and the kanonaki, are instruments of Asia Minor, and are shared with the Arabic musical world (santur, qanun). The hammer-struck santouri is fearsome enough: the plucked kanonaki (thimbles pictured if out of focus), with its fine-tuned bundles of strings, appears to me beyond the […]
Museum of Greek folk instruments: bowed
The dominant instrument of the Greek islands and Asia Minor is the lyra, a bowed instrument played on the knee, and that originated in Byzantium; I don’t have a clear sense whether the Byzantine lyra, or the Arabic rebab came first. In Turkey and in Pontic Greek, it is called the kemençe, and it is […]
The Museum of Greek Folk Musical Instruments
This museum was a delight, which is a bit surprising, considering it was just three floors of musical instruments in cases. But I had a broad grin going through it, seeing the historical development of instruments and instrumentation choices, and a couple of times being presented with instruments I’d never heard of. The pictured toumpi, […]
Roman Forum of Athens
Tumbling down steps in Plaka onto the Roman Forum of Athens: The Tower of the Winds in the Roman Forum of Athens: sundial, waterclock, and wind vane, complete with statues of eight wind gods, one each 45°. Later ended up a bell-tower, and then a Sufi hall. The fact it is as intact as it […]
Museum of the University of Athens
When Athens suddenly found itself the capital of Greece, Greece scrambled to build institutional buildings worthy of a capital. That means a lot of temporary accommodation until the buildings were ready. This originally Ottoman building had been remodelled into an architectural office in 1831. (And the two architects who set up shop there, Stamatis Kleanthis […]
Skirting around Anafiotika
I was heading up into Anafiotika, the Greek island village perched up against the Acropolis. (Literally a Greek island village—it was settled by builders who moved here from the island of Anafi, in the early building spurt of Athens.) However I got distracted by the topical presence of St Nicholas of Rangavas (the altar girl […]
Plaka
Across the road from Hadrian’s Gate, Plaka starts, the old town of Athens. When not overflowing with tourists and tourist tat, it is still charming—especially in contrast to the 20th century buildings of the centre. Walk up a bit, following the instructions of Lonely Planet’s Walking Tour, and you come across the 11th century church […]